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The Sumida River Fireworks Festival: Why Seeing the Fireworks Is Harder Than You Think

Every July, one of the biggest highlights of summer in Tokyo is the spectacular Sumida River Fireworks Festival . Around 20,000 fireworks light up the night sky. Thousands of people walk through the streets wearing colorful yukata (traditional summer clothing), while food stalls fill the air with the smells and sounds of a lively festival. For many visitors to Tokyo, this is the ultimate Japanese summer experience — a night they want to experience at least once in their lifetime. But there is one surprising challenge hidden behind this beautiful scene. Actually seeing the fireworks can be much harder than you might expect. Why Is It So Difficult to Find a Good View? Of course, some people plan far ahead. They reserve paid viewing seats, book restaurants or hotels with a perfect view, visit special rooftop venues, or enjoy the fireworks from a traditional yakatabune boat on the river. But for the hundreds of thousands of people who come to the area, most are not sittin...

Listening to the Japanese Summer: The Gentle Magic of Fūrin

  The Sound of Summer On a summer afternoon, you sit on an engawa —the traditional wooden veranda of a Japanese house. The heat is almost unbearable. Then, suddenly, a pleasant breeze begins to blow. A narrow paper strip attached to a wind chime sways gently in the wind, and a faint, clear sound rings through the air—what Japanese people describe as "chirin, chirin." It is a sound that somehow feels cool precisely because it is heard in the middle of such oppressive summer heat. The wind chime is not the star of summer, but a quiet supporting character, beloved as part of Japanese summer culture—especially in Tokyo's traditional downtown neighborhoods. During the Japanese summer, wind chimes can be found almost everywhere. At Sensō-ji Temple's Hōzuki Market , held every July, stalls selling pots of bright red Chinese lantern plants line the temple grounds. Hanging from the stalls are countless wind chimes, traditionally sold together with the plants. As visitors ...

Is Tokyo About to Reach 40°C? Visiting the Weather Station That Measures the City's Temperature

Where Is Tokyo's Temperature Actually Measured? Summer has arrived once again. In recent years, record-breaking heat has become common around the world, and Japan is no exception. Dangerous temperatures have already settled in across much of the country. On July 21, 2026, Gifu and Aichi Prefectures recorded Japan's first temperatures of 40°C or higher this year. Not long ago, reaching 40°C was considered an extraordinary event that made national headlines only once every few years. Today, however, because of global warming, such temperatures are appearing somewhere in Japan almost every summer. In Japan, hot days are officially classified into several temperature categories. Until recently, the highest category had been Mōshobi , meaning a day with a maximum temperature of at least 35°C. In April 2026, however, the Japan Meteorological Agency introduced a new category— Kokushobi  (literally, "severe heat day") —for days reaching 40°C or higher. Japan's Official Te...

A Shrine Among the Skyscrapers: Why Fukutoku Shrine Draws Crowds

  Nihonbashi has long been one of Tokyo's most important districts. During the Edo period, it marked the starting point of Japan's Five Major Highways, and even today it is officially recognized as the point from which the nation's road distances are measured. One Sunday in July, I crossed Nihonbashi Bridge and wandered toward the Muromachi neighborhood. The scenery changes surprisingly quickly. First comes the stately building of Mitsukoshi, Japan's oldest department store. A little farther on, glass office towers and modern shopping complexes such as COREDO Muromachi line the streets. Office workers, restaurants, cafés, and luxury shops create the atmosphere of one of Tokyo's leading business districts. Then, just a short walk off the main street, the scene changes again. Between modern office buildings stands a brilliant vermilion torii gate surrounded by trees. And in front of it... A remarkably long line. A Shrine Worth Waiting For? People of every ...

The Fading Streetscape of Denpoin-dori: Asakusa Between Memory and Change

A Familiar Streetscape Begins to Fade Since late June 2026, a quiet but significant change has been unfolding in the heart of Asakusa, Tokyo. On Denpoin-dori, a beloved side street the dismantling of a long-standing row of small shops has begun. Visitors to the area will now find shutters permanently rolled down, with some sections already undergoing demolition. The distinctive streetscape that has delighted generations of travelers is slowly fading away. Denpoin-dori is a narrow street that runs in front of Denpoin, a sub-temple of Senso-ji. It has long been known for its tightly packed, narrow-fronted shops, some barely wider than a doorway.  For decades, around thirty merchants sold everything from kimono and traditional zori sandals to souvenirs and Japanese sweets. Together, they created a picturesque and nostalgic atmosphere reminiscent of old Edo-style row houses, or nagaya . Connecting Nakamise-dori—the famous approach leading from Kaminarimon Gate to Senso-ji Temple—with ...